Nearshore circulation over transverse bar and rip morphology with oblique wave forcing
Earth Surface Processes and Landforms
Meandering alongshore current, Nearshore circulation, Rip current
There is a paucity of field data to describe the transition in nearshore circulation between alongshore, meandering and rip current systems. A combination of in-situ current meters and surf zone drifters are used to characterize the nearshore circulation over a transverse bar and rip morphology at Pensacola Beach, Florida in the presence of relatively low energy oblique waves. Current speeds vary in response to the relative wave height ratio (Hs/h), which defines the degree and extent of breaking over the shoal. In the absence of wave breaking the nearshore circulation was dominated by an alongshore current driven by the oblique waves. As waves begin to break across the shoal (0.2
Houser, Chris; Arnott, R.; Ulzhöfer, S.; and Barrett, G.. (2013). Nearshore circulation over transverse bar and rip morphology with oblique wave forcing. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 38 (11), 1269-1279.